Hardwood is the most durable material for decking, but it is very expensive for anything more than a small area. Softwood is cheaper, but must be treated with preservative to resist rot and insect attack. Pressure-treated timber, which has had the preservative forced deep into the wood, will last many years.
Decking boards in the form of planks are the most economical surface; use planed timber to avoid splinters. Many boards are available with a grooved profile, which improves rainwater drainage and provides a non-slip surface. Economy decking boards are machined from 4x1 inch (10x2.5 cm) timber, but wider and/or thicker boards often look better. These require fewer fixings and a less substantial supporting framework, so their higher price may be offset by savings on installation time and number of joists required. Prefabricated decking tiles and panels can also be bought.
Rustproof screws should be used throughout. Nails will rust and spoil the look of the decking and do not resist the natural warping that occurs with timber that is alternately drenched in rain and dried out by hot sun. A cordless drill or cordless screwdriver will drive the screws and countersink them in one operation. Otherwise you will need a countersink bit to ensure that the screw heads do not protrude. Lining up the screws across the width of the deck gives a neater finish; use a string line as a guide. Decking boards can be cut to make a pattern or varied in length, but cut ends must meet over a timber joist.
Timber for the framework should always be sawn, rather than planed, and treated with preservative. Use 3x2 inch (7.5x5 cm) timber joists for a framework resting on solid ground. For a suspended structure, use 4x2 inch (10x5 cm) or 6x2 inch (15x5 cm) joists. Secure them to 3 or 4 inch (7.5 or 10 cm) square posts, using 5-inch (13-cm) coach bolts.
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Use economical planed timber for decks to avoid splinters.
